Helen Rosner writes about Sawa, in Park Slope, owned by the siblings Samaya Boueri Ziade and George Boueri.
Most meals at Sawa begin with the bread, a sizable round of which comes with any of the restaurant’s selection of Middle Eastern dips: a bright swirl of labneh, thick and tangy and strewn with olives and za’atar; a magenta whorl of muhammara, sweet and smoky with charred red peppers and walnuts; a dense, garlicky hummus, which you can get topped with a dizzyingly savory dollop of braised beef cheeks, the meat as velvet-soft as the hummus itself.
The samke nayyeh—ribbons of cured fluke in a vermillion pool of blood-orange juice with marjoram and sumac—looks like it ought to be just as forceful but tastes smooth and clean, a subtle, slightly sweet showcase for the delicate flavor of the fish. “Sawa” is the Arabic word for “together,” and Ziade has said that she chose the restaurant’s name to evoke memories of Beirut, and vibrant, lingering meals shared there with loved ones.
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