“Inside we are all stronger than before.”
For the fashion world in Ukraine it has been a time of recalibration, rehabilitation and resistance, as brands have worked to adapt against a backdrop of hardship and suffering.on 24 February 2022, giving rise to a conflict that has destabilised the lives of millions and led to excruciating hardship as Ukrainian civilians work – whether at home or abroad – to keep their families safe and livelihoods intact.
But even amidst the pain and uncertainty, strength shines through. “Inside we are all stronger than before,” says Yana Olenich, founder of the eponymous womenswear label Olenich. “Unity and resistance is in our blood.” A year on, five designers reveal what their personal and professional realities look like now.For Gudu creative director Lasha Mdinaradze – who grew up in Georgia, but calls Ukraine his fashion home – his day-to-day doesn’t look all that different.
“It is still difficult for me to come to terms with blackouts that do not allow me to plan work, but when you understand the front-line conditions of Ukrainian defenders, these problems no longer seem so serious,” shares the designer, who has poured his energy into making smart upcycled denim and patchwork pieces that tell the country’s stories. “In Ukraine, we now joke that we have completely overcome procrastination.
The decision to remain in Kyiv was a no-brainer for Mdinaradze – “how could I go to a safe place and tell my team what to do?” – who believes that Gudu’s united front has become its greatest strength as the Ukrainian fashion industry makes waves in an international market. “New buyers have paid attention to us, new customers have appeared,” he says of his label’s expansion, helped in part by presenting Gudu’s work in New York and Budapest. “What scared us in February brings a smile today.
Before the war, Ienki Ienki was based in Kyiv, but the brand has now relocated its manufacturing facilities to areas of the country less at risk of physical threat, Ternopil and Cherkasy. In October 2022, the brand’s Ukraine-based employees began dealing with the fallout of Russian-inflicted country-wide power outages. “We had around two to three hours of electricity a day in our factories,” Ievenko says.
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