Researching dishes in the archives of the U.S. Holocaust Memorial Museum, chef Alon Shaya found a Hungarian family cookbook whose recipes, recreated, brought back memories for a member of that family, Holocaust survivor Steven Fenves.
Amidst the rich culinary landscape of New Orleans is a restaurant named Saba, which means grandfather in Hebrew. Its owner, Israeli chef Alon Shaya, has been winning awards for his modern Middle Eastern cuisine, which is odd given that, when he first emigrated from Israel at the age of four, his roots were something he'd hoped to erase.
The Fenyves family: mother Klári, father Lajos, Steven and Estera. They lived in Subotica, Yugoslavia, until they were separated and transported to concentration camps camps. Klári did not survive the war. Steven Fenves was 13 when his train arrived at Auschwitz in 1944. Memories of food, he said, would remind inmates of home:"It reminded you of pleasure in this lousy place where you were not a human," he said.
On the day looters stormed into his home as his family were being sent off – presumably to the gas chambers – Maris, who wasn't Jewish, raced in to save the family cookbook for reasons Steven still doesn't totally understand."I think it was a sense of loyalty, and a sense of love for the family," he said. It was, he admitted, a pretty brave thing for Maris to do, when the risk to her was punishment by death.
Fenves said,"Essentially, you know, there were no heat setting instructions, because this was all done on a cast iron stove."There were potato circles, a walnut cream cake, and semolina sticks.Fenves began translating the recipes from Hungarian into English, and Shaya began cooking the food and shipping the food to Fenves to taste for the first time in more than 70 years.
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