Daily News | Phila Lorn taps Cambodian heritage for inspiring BYOB debut at Mawn
Phila Lorn is as Philadelphian as it gets. He was born at Jefferson Hospital and grew up at 7th and Jackson. He’s cooked in this town for nearly the entirety of his adult life, albeit always behind the scenes — until now. And yes,“It’s pronounced ‘Peela,’ which is my mother’s broken English for ‘Philadelphia,’” he says of the name his parents chose as a gesture of gratitude for the city where they took refuge in 1985 to rebuild their lives. Phila was born here the following year.
All the rendered schmaltz from that chicken skin is part of the reason why Mawn’s chicken noodle soup, while infused with the Southeast Asian aromatics of ginger, scallion, and daikon, tastes like a mash-up of pho ga and the broth of a good matzo ball soup. It’s also steeped with the bubbe’s secret of parsnip roots. “It starts off Jewish, ends-up Asian,” says Phila, noting the influence of Rachel’s Jewish family roots.
“We have no rules, we do what we want and we own our own time,” he says, explaining why their BYOB is only open four days a week for dinner until 9 p.m. . The approach also explains why the menu gleans from a multitude of Asian influences, from Burma to Laos, Vietnam, Japan, and Thailand. A few staff holdovers from the original Kalaya have contributed, including a Thai crab fried rice rich with crustacean fat that is flat-out delicious.
You can taste the pride in those memories in dishes like the banh chow salad, savory coconut milk-turmeric crepes, not unlike crispy Vietnamese banh xeo, but cradled wet in a bowl already dressed with fish sauce beneath a flavorful pile of herbs, sprouts, chicken and shrimp.
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