Perspective: “Can you still indulge in a city that embraces pleasure while sticking to a budget? I found out.”
It takes three tries to find a Lime eBike that works. By the time I get to, the friends I’m meeting have already ordered a couple of bottles of wine. My budget is doomed.
From the set menu, I order the appetizer and main combination for $21.50. FOMO hits immediately, and I switch to three courses for $25.75 to join the others. It’s not a big price difference and yet it feels much more extravagant. It’s not the extra course that will be my downfall; our beverages are running up the tab. I keep this internal battle to myself.
We order much more wine and feast on oysters, sardines, sausage, bread and cheese for dessert. Split between the five of us, our two-hour lunch is about $65 each.Takeaway: What a place is called matters in France. Bistros tend to be more casual and inexpensive and are open for lunch and dinner; brasseries typically serve French food into the late night; cafes focus on drinks; and restaurants cover the rest.
Some awnings of cafes, brasseries and tabacs — places that sell tobacco but may also have a bar or cafe, too — have “WiFi” advertised alongside happy-hour times and what kind of food they serve. The server at one brasserie says it’s fine to work on my laptop, brings over the WiFi password and a glass of rosé — not that I need any more wine after lunch, but it’s one of the cheapest menu items. I take a Zoom meeting while a group of very cool youths chain-smoke at the table next to me.
The French words for “tap water” escape me, so I order water the other way I know: “une bouteille d’eau minérale, s’il vous plait” . The server brings me my bottle of designer water. My Evian is nearly as much as my meal — a plate of terrine de campagne maison with cornichons, some greens and a basket of crusty bread, plus a glass of wine.I take a seat at a sidewalk table at Le Royal Bar in Pigalle, a red-light district with lots of bars as well as the Moulin Rouge.
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