Perspective: Brining made our roast chicken juicy but didn’t add flavor. So we reinvented it.
There comes a time when even the most beloved and closely held adages need to be challenged. Take Plato’s “necessity is the mother of invention.” Centuries ago, for example, long before refrigeration, people had to figure out how to preserve food for long periods, especially fallow times, and — boom — salting food, either by packing it in salt or adding it to a brine , was born.
In the beginning, he didn’t bother to measure the salt he added to the water, and the results were, predictably, inconsistent — from barely perceptible to a veritable salt lick — but one thing was certain: The chicken was finally juicy. Still, my taste buds were bored. What’s the point of all that work of brining if you can’t punch up the taste?
The prospect of having to wrench myself away from binge watching “Schitt’s Creek” to chop vegetables for hours didn’t sit well. At Sunday dinner, with my version of the old “Saturday Night Live” Bass-O-Matic skit forgotten, I was stunned by the intensity of the chicken’s flavor. For the first time, I could taste some of the constituents of the brine: the garlic, onion and rosemary. Alan, too, was surprised. To make sure this wasn’t a fluke, I made it for guests and had other cooks make it for themselves. They all were just as astonished.
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