Paula Canovas del Vas's spring collection was intended to entice some senses beyond sight.
If you know the name Paula Canovas del Vas, you likely know it for the designer’s devil-toed shoes and accessories. A graduate of Central Saint Martins, Canovas del Vas started her label in 2018 and immediately garnered buzz around the pronged pieces, developing the pointy motif as her unofficial signature. For spring 2022, she evolves the horned look, using it as a silhouette for trousers, skirts, and jackets to give the body a bulbous, surreal shape.
Her fans will like the idea, no doubt, but Canovas del Vas proves with this fleshed-out collection and film that she has extensive views on fashion and dress well beyond horned maxis. Over Zoom, she expounded on her research, which took her from Peter Greenaway films to Vanessa Beecroft performances. Canovas del Vas was also once a research assistant at the school of Kanye West; you can see the connection in her ever-wandering, ever-wondering eye.
It’s hard to tell over Zoom exactly how one would feel inside a Canovas del Vas piece—that’s the plight of phygital Fashion Week. But I have to assume, even from 3,000 miles away, that jumping around in “spaghetti”-inspired fringe, walking through the city in watercolor denim, or partying in neon printed leggings would be pretty great, especially after a year-and-change of less-than-exuberant style.
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