The campaign combines old food traditions and new nationalist sentiment.
At the Bertinelli factory in Parma, a visitor takes a picture of maturing wheels of Parmigiano-Reggiano and Ilaria Bertinelli demonstrates how the integrity of each wheel of cheese is verified.
Mahmadou Diawara, a Bertinelli employee, performs one of the first steps in the Parmigiano-Reggiano production process. Within the European Union, foods and wines linked historically to a particular region are categorized as “geographical origin” products. And they are fiercely protected inside of the bloc. The sale of generic parmesan, for instance, is banned in Europe. Other foods with European protection include Asiago, Roquefort, Morbier, the ham called Prosciutto di Parma, and Grana Padano, a Parmigiano cousin.
Agriculture Minister Gian Marco Centinaio, a member of the League, told The Washington Post that Italian and Japanese foods “are the most copied in the world,” and, as a result, Italy has 100 billion “potential frauds we need to attack.” The production of Parmigiano moves at a nonindustrial pace because there is no other way. The cheese is churned in copper vats — by rule, of course — that must re-oxidize after use, meaning the vats typically remain unused for roughly three quarters of the day. As a result, there is almost no round-the-clock Parmigiano production. The process is hushed, deliberate. One typical company, Bertinelli, has three workers who make cheese every day from 10 vats that look like overturned church bells.
But in some other ways, production is changing. Fewer Italians are performing the cheesemaking jobs, which pay well but require early wake-ups and heavy lifting. Bertinelli’s workforce consists of one Italian-born “cheese master” and two assistants, a married couple from the Ivory Coast. One of those workers, Mamadou Diawara, said he relishes a stable job but doesn’t love parmesan. “I like softer cheeses,” he said. “French cheeses.
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