Brass Ram comes from one of Dallas’ most prolific restaurateurs.
is the latest playplace for Badovinus’ team. They plan to open three restaurants — one on each floor, and the third floor isn’t finished yet — in tandem with a development effort by Dallas company Todd Interests to reinvigorate this sliver of Dallas between downtown and Deep Ellum.
As with every Badovinus restaurant, Brass Ram serves meatballs. The ones here have blue cheese frisée. Badovinus says everything else on the menu — and there are a lot of other items — are unique to Brass Ram. That’s worth noting, because downstairs at National Anthem, the menu is more of a greatest hits album of all of Badovinus’ existing restaurants.
There’s no need to look too hard at the decor here, but it’s hard not to wonder: How many vintage shops did Badovinus visit to buy all of these little gold animals that look like they belong in a fancy library? Dozens. How many hardback books did he buy and haul himself? Hundreds.
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