One of the best restaurants in Greater Manchester doesn’t even exist

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One of the best restaurants in Greater Manchester doesn’t even exist
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Our Place’s supper club series is quietly making its mark on Manchester

Hattersley-born chef Iain Thomas is a pretty big deal. You might well have tried his food - either at Ancoats’ gastro-pub, Edinburgh Castle, or back in the day at Establishment on King Street - the building that is now home to Italian restaurant Rosso.

But, following the glowing review, and despite being at the peak of his career, the chef, who has been working in kitchens since he was 16, decided to step back. What the hotel wanted didn’t quite align with Iain’s vision for a restaurant. The idea took root in Iain’s mind during lockdown, when without furlough to fall back on, the chef found a new sense of purpose - and a small income - growing produce on his allotment at community growing hub Hattersley Projects in Hyde. It was during this time that he really began to think about how he could be more sustainable as a chef.

As David explains: “Iain educated me a lot on the sustainability side. I was used to working with big bulk things, catering for big 500-plus weddings in previous hotel roles. I’ve had to learn a lot, and I recognise I was part of the problem.” Menus for their other supper clubs, held at venues including Track brewery’s taproom, Kerb wine bar and Stockport bakery Yellowhammer will vary depending on what is available from suppliers and growers, but diners can expect dishes like Polyspore mushrooms with pearl barley and Yorkshire pecorino in a nod to one of Iain’s Italian suppliers, based in Inverness, and Littlewoods’ beef rump with onions, ox tongue and small chips known as chipettes, which the chef explains were the result of a...

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