Hawkins House of Burgers is a landmark on the corner of Imperial Highway and Slater Street in Watts. It doesn't often show up on lists of classic L.A. restaurants — but it should.
Hawkins is known best for its baroque Angus beef burgers; itsis less promotional tool than a slideshow reel of temptation: shot upon glorious shot of densely built burgers bursting with char-edged patties and wagging tongues of thick apple-smoked bacon.
In 1982, his daughter, Cynthia, added the small burger restaurant, which is shoehorned into the side of the building. Today, she runs the restaurant with her daughters, Dawn and Danielle Gibson. Maybe it was my sun-addled brain — the mercury was crawling into the upper 80s on the day I visited — but I found myself ordering the statuesque Leaning Tower of Watts instead, which is like three Whipper Burgers smashed together on a bamboo skewer.
Yes, reader, I ate it. I skimmed some off the top for dinner, then Dawn kindly wrapped it up for me in aluminum foil so I could take it home and keep eating it. And every time I scraped at the burger the next day, it was exquisite: rich, salty, comfortingly familiar but never boring. The secret is the coarse ground beef, gently seasoned and hand-packed into loose patties, charred just enough so that it tastes freshly plucked off a backyard grill.
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