A brief history of Le Labo Santal 33, the wildly popular scent that almost wasn’t made at all and might not exist if not for JaneLarkworthy
Photo: Courtesy of the Retailer In a recent Quinnipiac poll, one in five women said she wears Le Labo Santal 33 as her preferred fragrance.
I was in the minority, though. When Le Labo opened the doors to its Nolita store, customers were charmed by the fragrances, especially the labels, which were customized by the wearer’s name and an expiry date. The candle, on the other hand, just sat there. No one noticed it, hardly anyone bought it, until hotelier Ian Schraeger encountered it. He ordered a run of similar — but smokier — custom candles for the Gramercy Park Hotel, which he was in the process of renovating into a fashion hot spot.
As for me, I was busy smearing wax on my neck, totally intoxicated by the scent of the candle. I begged the guys to make a wearable version, but they wouldn’t listen. “We ignored the few friends, including you, who said, ‘You should go for a perfumer version,’” remembers Penot. “We were too busy keeping the boat afloat.”Four years passed. A room spray had been added somewhere between the launch and year one, but not even a murmur of a wearable sandalwood.
They reached out to perfumer Frank Voelkl, who had created the original, discarded sandalwood fragrance, as well as the candle. “I was actually wearing the fragrance quite often, and I always received comments,” says Voelkl. “I would, of course, not give it to anyone else, but over the years I tried to convince Fabrice to sell it. The candle was paying their rent, but maybe he wasn’t sure what would happen if they made a perfume out of the scent.
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