Myth Testing: The Secrets of the Best Matzo Balls

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Myth Testing: The Secrets of the Best Matzo Balls
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Like 'em light and tender? Or dense as can be? Here's how to get either result.

I looked at a lot of recipes using baking powder, and found 1/4 teaspoon per 1/4 cup of matzo meal to be pretty common. I tested it out. And boy did it work. Look at a matzo ball with that amount of baking powder alongside a matzo ball without:

I tried it out, quadrupling the basic ratio to a full cup of matzo meal, four eggs, and 1/4 cup each fat and liquid . Of the four eggs, I separated out two whites and beat them until stiff, ultimately folding those beaten whites into the remaining ingredients. Schmaltz was certainly the typical fat in the matzo balls of the Old World, and many cooks still swear by it today. Today, though, vegetable and canola oils are often used for convenience. So, just how important is that chicken fat?Well, side-by-side taste tests proved that it's pretty valuable to the flavor of the matzo balls, especially when the schmaltz is made with onion. It's just fantastically rich stuff, and the matzo balls are all the better for it.

Okay, now we get down to the wire. It's matzo-ball cooking time and we have some options. Let's start at the beginning: Matzo balls are served in chicken broth. For a really nice presentation, that broth should be clear, not cloudy. Yet matzo balls have a tendency to make the liquid they're poached in cloudy. If you don't care about that, go ahead an poach directly in the broth you're going to serve.

If there's one hard-and-fast rule I'll stand by for good matzo balls, it's that they need to be cooked in chicken broth. The richer and more flavorful that broth is, the better—. You can use that stock as your soup base, but for an even more intense flavor, take the stock and poach a whole chicken in it with even more aromatic vegetables. Then strain that out .

I've read a few recipes that plead with the reader not to uncover the pot at all while the matzo balls simmer, lest some terrible fate befall them. I was skeptical, so I set up three pots, one of which I left uncovered the whole time, one of which I opened every ten minutes or so during the hour-long simmer, and one that remained covered the entire time.

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