If you like lager, chances are you’ve got a 17th century brewmaster to thank for it.
The commercial yeast used to brew most modern lagers was created when the pasty yeast slurries for a white ale and a brown beer mixed in a cellar of the original Munich Hofbräuhaus—not to be confused with the beer hall there today—sometime between 1602 and 1615, according to a new synthesis of historical brewing records and genetic histories of yeast.
Although 17th century brewmasters didn’t know about the existence of yeast, they did notice the new blend was a winner—it fermented vigorously like an ale but tolerated colder temperatures, like a brown beer. This meant they could brew a clean-tasting lager earlier in the spring in the Northern Hemisphere, where temperatures plummeted during the Little Ice Age, from about 1300 to 1850 C.E. Eventually, one yeasty starter from the new brew was taken by stagecoach to Copenhagen, Denmark.
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