Military-inspired styles have become deeply entrenched in contemporary wardrobes, prized for their clean lines, functionality and — possibly fanned during the pandemic — for bolstering the wearer’s confidence.
famously designing “cash and carry” pockets, eliminating the need for handbags, as well as air-raid shelter suits during the Second World War, Golbin noted. But sometimes military-inspired collections turn up during peaceful times, as in 2011 when Marc Jacobs paraded a tough-edged Louis Vuitton collection of jodhpurs and peaked caps inspired by the controversial 1974 film “The Night Porter.”
“Along with its associations with heroic masculinity, military style places a premium on functionality and authenticity, allowing men to pretend they are uninterested in fashion,” he said. “Burberry is still associated with officers wearing trenchcoats 100 years after World War I, and as a result the brand is viewed positively.”
By contrast, “there was such a huge international protest movement against American engagement in Vietnam that you had an interesting phenomenon of people who were against the war who were wearing Army and Navy clothes, not to say we support this war, but rather to be making an anti-war statement.” In 2006, the Museum at FIT mounted an exhibition called ““Love and War: The Weaponized Woman” that explored the influence of armor and other military styles on contemporary fashion.
France Dernières Nouvelles, France Actualités
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