Mike Sutter review: Restaurant Claudine fits the unruly South in a boutique Government Hill package

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Mike Sutter review: Restaurant Claudine fits the unruly South in a boutique Government Hill package
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France, Louisiana and the South form an alliance for the newest project from the owners...

and turned that relic of a Southern Gothic novel into a perfect Savannah bungalow.

What’s being done in her name is a study in Southern cooking. Not fried green tomatoes, not shrimp and grits, but the whole sprawling web of influences we call Southern cooking. From France, there’s escargot and duck confit and a wine list that’s all French. From Louisiana, there’s gumbo and blue crab beignets. From that patchwork curtain dress we call the South there’s cornbread, frog legs and fried chicken.It doesn’t all conform to a neat connect-the-dots culinary map.

In the same two-hour span, his kitchen turned out a trio of frog legs fried like chicken wings, with glossy meat in the sweet spot between surf and turf, along with a smart heirloom tomato salad that defied the season with rich reds, antique yellows and ombré fusions of burgundy and hunter green with a dress of pistachios and vinaigrette.

A lot of kitchens treat shrimp like chicken, and it shows. Shrimp is unforgiving. Cook it one shade too cool or one shade too hot and it’s all over. Restaurant Claudine found the Goldilocks Zone over and over, getting it just right every time. Laid over a sweet corn salad called maque choux, a trio of blackened shrimp picked up all the spice without the attitude, perfect curls with caramelization and marbled white meat in tight balance.

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