From Michelin star kitchens to a village pub... chef Gary Usher's new spot is a gem
Gary Usher, the multi award-winning restaurateur who’s worked under some of the most influential chefs in the world and now has a string of successful restaurants to his name, didn't have much fun at school.
Catering remains among the most vocational of routes through further and higher education. But equally as many chefs have, like Gary, learned on the job as those who have gone through catering college. Sitting in front of the cosy fire at the White Horse in Churton, near Chester, the place he’s opening up this weekend, he’s now come full circle, from pubs to hotels to Michelin starred kitchens to bistros and back to pubs again.
His hotel experience then earned him enough kudos to start applying for jobs in London and before long he’d landed a job at the hugely influential Chez Bruce, which has held a Michelin star for over two decades and was named London’s best restaurant last year, 28 years after it opened. “I didn't feel confident enough to be backed by her,” he says. “It's a lot of pressure. I thought if Angela backs me in a restaurant, and if it went wrong, everyone would know about it. I’d make a fool of Angela, and I didn’t want to do that. I’d rather make of fool of myself somewhere on my own!
But not cowed, he still plans to expand, with a tapas venture called Joya in the pipeline, as well as his events catering business and a development and masterclass kitchen run from the company’s headquarters in Chester.
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