Manitoulin baker feasts on local ingredients

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Manitoulin baker feasts on local ingredients
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Genevieve Sartor is out to bring regional producers together as a regional food and farm coordinator

Over the course of a decade, Genevieve Sartor was steadily bouncing back and forth between two equally intriguing, but very different, worlds.

"This sort of twin reality, I never really understood how I was going to merge them,” said Sartor, sharing her story at the 2023 Northern Ontario Ag Conference in Sudbury on Feb. 16. But she was soon looking beyond bread to figure out how else she could use more local ingredients in her dishes and, by extension, how to get more people to appreciate Manitoulin's local food scene.

“Instead of coming at it like a chef — because I wasn't really trained as a chef — I just came at it as somebody who frickin loves food and really likes people,” she said. Sartor brought back artisanal cheese from Kapuskasing, Lonza pork loin from Thunder Bay, and sauerkraut from Bruce Mines, among other goodies, and began incorporating those products into her menus.“This is incredible,” she said. “This is what Europeans thrive off of. Why aren't we completely taking advantage of this?”

Because it was during grape-harvesting season, Harfield pressed grapes and talked about his operation, while Sartor served the meal. It's a model she predicts will gain in popularity in the North. When she would run out of an ingredient, Sartor said, she refused to substitute it with an off-island equivalent, frustrating those who expected a set menu.

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