“I’m not just saying niceties,” Meagher, 25, says. “I’m saying things that are constructive and telling the truth.”
On an overcast mid-February day, content creator Luke Meagher browsed the spring 2023 collections stocked at Dover Street Market New York. The self-made fashion critic, dressed in an oversized Margiela sweater and Rick Owens boots, was not merely shopping. He was seeing in person, for the first time, clothes he either praised or obliterated for nearly 800,000 subscribers on YouTube.
To Meagher, crafting video reviews simply feels more aligned with modern tastes and habits. “There are more eyes on the videos,” he says. “I think that’s a factor that makes people sit up and look at it. I think with [traditional reviews]—there are maybe one or two thousand people reading [it in] a paper or an article online? It’s very in industry.” Meagher’s review of the outfits celebrities wore during the most recent Couture Week in Paris has, as of writing, 321,000 views.
Meagher is in full-on review mode at Dover Street Market. He waxes long about inspirations as he browses Rick Owens: “I watched something recently where Owens was like, ‘Why would I show anyone my mood board? I don’t want you to know.’ That’s adesigner to me.” At that moment Meagher’s partner, who is also shopping at the store, waves hello from the marquee transparent elevator at the center of the seven-floor shop. Meagher beams and waves back.
The candid criticism did not immediately win everyone in the industry over. For many seasons, Meagher found it difficult to receive invites to fashion shows or events. When asked about being blacklisted by brands or designers, he joked, “Well, can you be blacklisted from something you were never invited to to begin with?” He quickly made peace with the tensions. “I don’t need to be there to do the work,” he said. “I’m not just saying niceties.
An outsider-insider approach to fashion is nothing new. Since the dawn of the internet, fashion enthusiasts outside of glossy publications have carved out important spaces for themselves within fashion. There were the highly read street style blogs of Tavi Gevinson and BryanBoy, which catapulted both to front-row fame. But unlike his predecessors—and in line with many old-school critics—a highly curated and unique sense of style is not part of Meagher’s success.
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