Designer Raul Lopez brought Madonna, Ice Spice, and office-siren punk looks to Rockefeller Center for his latest runway show.
Luar brought its usual Brooklyn runway show to Rockefeller Center for spring 2025—a collection that may have been designer Raul Lopez’s most detailed yet. Subverting the usual tourist garb for that signature Luar look, those attending the show were easy to spot: rather than sensible walking shoes and backpacks, the crowd wore latex, giant shoulders, and floor-length trench coats.
Lopez titled the collection “El Boca Quedó,” which translates to “in your mouth, my name stays.” Speaking from his studio a few days before the show, the designer explained the idea further: “When you walk away from a group, they’re going to be like, ‘Oh, Raul's so nice.’ Or they’re going to be like, ‘Oh, I can’t stand that bitch.’ You actually do stay in people’s mouths, even when you walk away.
Luar shows are always buzzy—and the ink-black runway, loud music, and front-row guests including Madonna and Ice Spice only added to the excitement. Offset and Julez Smith walked in the show. Some models wore corporate suits with a Luar twist—tighter, leaner, more subversive, and paired with wig cap-like hats or ski goggle-size sunglasses. Lopez pulled from the nostalgic feeling of his time as a teenage emo kid and his lifeling punk identity.
This season, there’s been talk among the fashion crowd about the future of NYFW: what it means, where it’s going. Luar demonstrated that the heart of it all can be found in indie designers with a strong point of view. “New York is this concrete jungle, and I know it sounds cliché, but it is,” he added. You have to fight or you get swallowed up.
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