Even surprise front-row appearances from Bey, Ms. Tina, and Solange Knowles couldn't distract from one of Raul Lopez's strongest collections to date.
It wouldn’t be a Luar runway without a little drama. And on February 13, the label’s fall 2024 show packed all that in, plus more.
He became “obsessed with the ’80s—not the 1980s, but the 1680s and the 1780s, when men were super flamboyant.” His research of the Elizabethan era and Rococo artworks manifested in the collection through glossed-up, shiny jackets that contorted the shoulders, rendering them not far from the kind of hulking football pads that were on display at the Super Bowl just a few days prior.
The designer gleaned more literal inspiration from corsets, armor, and metrosexual men from the early 2000s like Matthew McConaughey and David Beckham—both of whom were on Lopez’s mood board this season. For the Luar gals, Lopez’s metrosexual concept showed itself in bold shapes on female models. Towards the end of the show, the shoulders got bigger, higher, and more structured, the color palette receding from deep navys, plums, and browns to corporate blacks and grays.
Make no mistake: these are clothes that look and feel expensive. “We did these Chevron techniques where it looks like they’re slashed. It calls to these really rich, luxe leathers and beautiful, exotic fabrics like Mongolian lamb,” Lopez said. It’s clear the designer is not just a provocateur of interesting shapes. He is an artist engaged in creating cultural discourse.
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