Loewe’s Jonathan Anderson just staged one of the definitive shows of the SS22 season. Not just clothes, this was fashion at its transformative best.
’s Gucci). This time round, Jonathan seems to be doing the same – or at least, the timing of his show is eerily prescient. Just as other designers strip back clothes to miniscule proportions, herald the Return of Sexy, and brazenly display skin – he did the opposite by distorting and shaping the body through clothes, and challenging our very notions of normality and reality.
Hence, Dadaist artworks by Marcel Duchamp were clearly an influence — we’re living in surreal times, after all. Jonathan was thinking about the idea of the ‘readymade’ object and so he applied to them stiletto heels — remember those? — with red roses, bars of soap, birthday candles, bottles of nail polish and cracked eggs replacing the heel. They echoed the spirit of, who once made shoes to resemble meat.
Sure, Jonathan’s ready-to-wear for Loewe has always erred on the side of the esoteric and conceptual, but here was a perfect harmony of that and eminently desirable clothes, like the sequinned dresses with flamenco leg holes, a gown draped from sugared-almond chiffon, and blouson taffeta bombers worn with strident wide-leg trousers. There was even denim, for crying out loud, albeit masterfully reconfigured as caped jackets and skirts with satin bubbles.
Perhaps ‘reset’ isn’t quite the right word. Renaissance feels more fitting, especially considering Jonathan was initially kickstarted into creative mode by, painted by the Italian mannerist artist Jacopo Pontormo in Florence 1528, which depicts angels in their sumptuous, colourful drapes. All of them look a bit hysterical, mouths agasp and heads tilted back.
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