Lisbon’s Lemony Amarguinha Thrives at This Century-Old Drink Kiosk

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Lisbon’s Lemony Amarguinha Thrives at This Century-Old Drink Kiosk
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At Quiosque de São Paulo, a simple cocktail of lemon and bitter-almond liqueur is the perfect drink for summer. (via punch_drink)

At Quiosque de São Paulo, a simple cocktail of lemon and bitter-almond liqueur is the perfect drink for summer.

Quiosque de São Paulo, resplendently red and boasting graceful wrought-iron flourishes and antique signage, is one of several Art Nouveau kiosks that dot Lisbon. The city’s kiosk craze kicked off in the late 19th century and at its peak, it’s thought that Lisbon was home to as many as 67 kiosks. Quiosque de São Paulo is believed to date back to the early days of Lisbon kiosks, around 1892, and like many other kiosks in Lisbon, it serves a short menu of drinks and snacks.

A scan of the menu of Quiosque de São Paulo reveals archaic beverages such as vinho quinado , and hard-to-find snacks such as punheta de bacalhau , a salad of strips of salt cod and onion bathed in olive oil. Magalhães eschews Coca-Cola for a housemade salsaparrilhaa local version of sarsaparilla, and a glass might be paired with a chamuça, a samosalike snack that originated in Goa, India—formerly a Portuguese colonial territory.

Magalhães tells me that the drink has strong links with southern Portugal, where it’s known as licor de amêndoa amarga, “bitter-almond liqueur.” It probably wouldn’t have been widely available in Lisbon a century ago, he says, but it belongs to the family of syrupy sweet liqueurs, with flavors such as sour cherry and anise, that were kiosk staples back in the day.

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