Lanvin Spring 2024 Ready-to-Wear collection, runway looks, beauty, models, and reviews.
“After several years of, let’s say, dynamism and even volatility in the brand, we’re really preparing it for the future,” is how CEO Siddhartha Shukla put it at this morning’s Lanvin presentation. By the future he didn’t meanFuture: nonetheless the musician’s capsule collection under the house’s new Lanvin Lab format was available to see before its launch in November. This was so hot that a Parisian fire safety officer was in constant attendance.
Today, though, was about the main line, which, like the most recent resort outing, was fashioned by those who remain in the Lanvin team following the exit of its most recent creative director. Under Shukla’s new three-pronged strategy, that main line—which is due a new headline designer by Christmas—will take center stage.
As Karl Lagerfeld once observed of Jeanne Lanvin: “Her image wasn’t as strong as that of Chanel because she was a nice old lady and not a fashion plate.” That enigmatic quality freed the house’s team to shape a tight collection that was rooted in 1920s style despite it being a period when Lanvin’s most contemporaneously-revered volumes were themselves slightly out of time.
A smattering of male looks were less inflected by the 1920s than a desire to present a 2020s foil to the house’s this-season womenswear. The results included bootcut pants and low-skirted, wide collar tailoring spiced with sometimes-coated guipure detailing and shared styling touches. Lanvin’s recentish history and powerful origin story means it remains a wonderful but slightly formless opportunity: at this presentation it continued to take gradual shape.
France Dernières Nouvelles, France Actualités
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