Inspired by the sandwiches of both Galatoire's and Bub & Grandma's, this tangle of crab meat on a warm buttered brioche bun has a bright, lemony vinaigrette, with pops of crunch and pickle-y punch from sugar snap peas and gherkins.
The journey of a humble bowl of stew, from rural Colorado to urban California, and how it became a beloved restaurant dish on the menu at Dunsmoor.And even if I eat at a restaurant there that doesn’t have soft-shells, it’s bound to have crab salad on the menu, especially if it’s of the century-old-French-restaurant variety like Galatoire’s. I go there specifically for the crab maison, a tangle of crab meat bound with mayonnaise spiked with Creole mustard and dotted with capers and scallions.
Inspired by that salad and a renewed obsession with tuna salad sandwiches, brought about by the one at Bub & Grandma’s that also uses mustard — albeit the yellow French’s variety — I’ve decided to start a new tradition of making myself a crab salad sandwich in spring. If I can’t get to New Orleans for my yearly springtime crab ritual, I can at least re-create it in a new way for myself at home.
In lieu of mustard, though, I go with a bright, lemony vinaigrette; it has enough punch to cut through the richness of the crab without dominating the crustacean’s flavor the way a yellow or Dijon mustard would. Going mayo-less is out of character for me, but in this instance it works wonderfully since the richness that mayo brings will be provided, in this sandwich, by a brioche roll toasted up with butter and some torn Castelvetrano olives.
As for the crab meat itself, it would be a nice fantasy to tell you that I boil and pick it myself, but why lie? I go to the butcher shop and buy the best that they have. And while the jumbo lump that I’ve picked up from my local fishmonger was, indeed, creamier and richer than what I can find at the supermarket, I can attest that the crab from the supermarket also works fantastically well in this sandwich.
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