Krizia's collection honored the founder's tradition of fabric experimentation while making it appealing for a new generation of customers.
Antonio D’Anna is finding his sweet spot at Krizia and gaining confident in approaching the universe built by founder Mariuccia Mandelli. He shied away from strictly ’80s codes — the golden era of the label — and found a balance between the brand’s storied tradition of fabric experimentation and a contemporary edge.
There were intriguing combinations of natural fabrics and resin details; crochet pieces with PVC or rubber inserts; patchwork looks made of leather in different finishes, and pleated garments with a sculptural effect. Jewelry-like adornments contributed to the appeal of the most convincing looks, as seen in a boxy cotton jacket and short shorts with cutouts of female silhouettes and resin embellishments. The simple yet striking concept was most effective when replicated on the generous volumes of a white shirt and on the minimal silhouette of a black dress, while alternative takes on the decoration appeared on fluid, asymmetrical dresses and knitwear.
The other highlights of the collection were the pleated textures of technical organza that elevated mannish, oversize suits as well as basic tank tops, bras and feminine strapless dresses with corsetry accents. Shades of lilac, baby blue and zingy yellow, which stood out amid the brand’s signature color palette of neutrals, made for a refreshing pop touch intended as a nod to ’60s Italian design, according to D’Anna.
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