What does modern Korean cooking taste like in Los Angeles? A chef with a tiny restaurant and concise tasting menu offers a compelling answer.
, he funneled all the ideas and ambitions that had been percolating in his brain for years into a 10-item menu of starters and entrees.
Among Kinn’s first inventive wave of dishes were rosy kerchiefs of brisket bathed in horseradish-tinged soy sauce and blanketed with bell pepper slices; a riff on a Korean-style corndog made of prosciutto and Dungeness crab and squiggled with house-made ketchup; and tiny turnips punctuated with batons of radish kimchi and dressing that evoked the flavors of gaejang .
A signature dish at Kinn — crispy octopus with gochujang aioli. Its inspiration came partly from nakji-bokkeum, spicy stir-fried octopus. Kim has been steadily clearing a path for himself. It helps that he came ready with a hard-to-resist signature dish, one he likely won’t ever pull from rotation, that conveys his essence as a chef in a few bites. “Crispy octopus with gochujang aioli,” the staff will say while setting it down. A simple description doesn’t do justice to the labor involved.On Kinn’s menus, the ingredients emphasize the current moment while also acknowledging the transition from the previous season.
Kinn has never been about the ornate, hours-long notion of a tasting menu. The meal unfolds at a synchronized clip — not rushed, but definitely not draggy — with most of the dishes assembled by the chefs behind the counter of what was a sushi bar in the space’s previous life cycle.
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