India’s most nostalgic egg dish is made on a train.
, comes a defining moment. The protagonist, young Indian cook Hassan Kadam , wants to prove himself to the very French Madame Mallory , a Michelin-decorated chef who turns her nose up at the curry-making family who’ve moved in across the street. He decides to show her his skills by making an omelet.
An Indian omelet is essentially a masala omelet, different from regular omelets in that it packs in both a generous amount of finely diced vegetables and considerable heat from various spices. Versions of masala omelet are conspicuously available anywhere you go in India, but for me, nowhere does it reign more supreme than in my memories of childhood—of long train journeys ventured in hot summers.
It broke all the strictures of traditional omelet-making, but it was the kind of exception that for me became the rule: thin, flat, pale to the point of sickly, large enough that it would flop over the edge of your plate, and liberally flecked with chile powder and peppers, onions, and coriander. Oftentimes it was a sandwich filling, folded up and bursting out of two slices of white bread, usually toasted in the grease of the pan.
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