Hooligan fish are also called candlefish because they are so oily. You can dry them, insert a wick, and light them like a candle
Alaskans gather on riverbanks wearing chest waders and carrying long-handled nets in search of one of the earliest sources of wild foods in the year: silver, pencil-length smelts called hooligans that are the workhorse of marine food webs and an obsession of many state residents who, coming out of winter, are looking for fresh, local food.
Alaskans of all stripes enjoy them baked, pan-fried, smoked, dried, pickled, and canned. No need to remove the head or bones, or the teaspoon of innards they hold inside. Bill Hague has been catching them for more than 20 years. Along the muddy banks of the Kenai River, one of the state’s famous salmon streams, Mr Hague and a dozen others fish beneath a highway bridge hoping to fill their buckets weeks before the salmon arrive.
For many Alaskans, hooligan usher in the season of harvesting as locals fan out into meadows to gather fiddlehead ferns and wild greens, head to charred sites of old wildfires in search of morel mushrooms and launch skiffs to drop a hook for the first time of the year.
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