Restaurant owners in Manhattan, Brooklyn and Queens take us inside their kitchens as they struggle to stay in business during the pandemic HelpNYCRestos by chloesorvino
“I did not have a loan when I opened nor do I have any partners or investors,” says Harlem-native Melba Wilson of her 15-year-old comfort food establishment. “Closing our doors is a severe financial hampering.”
The family-owned spot has been serving comfort staples like it’s custom Pat LaFrieda blend burger since 1977. “We spent the last six months renovating and redecorating, and then corona came,” Rao says, beginning to cry. “There’s never not been people here.”As sales slowed in March, Chef Kyo Pang and co-owner Moonlynn Tsai adapted the menu of their Malaysian coffee house in Chinatown to feature kits for making Kopitiam’s signature kaya toast at home.
First came a spot in Midtown, followed by a location on the Upper West Side. “The dream that I never thought would happen,” says Halabi. Gazala’s success allowed her to stay in the country even after her 2012 divorce. Bruccoleri says his employees have become part of his family but he’s had to let most go, keeping only a bare-bones kitchen staff to fulfill delivery and pick-up orders: “We’ve been suffering.”
Felipe Mendez-Candelas decided to bring the street food of his hometown, Coyoacán, Mexico to Brooklyn 12 years ago. But these days, he’s mostly making sure his restaurant is properly disinfected—“as soon as I hang up I’m probably going to clean this phone again,” he says.
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