Costume designer Paul Tazewell used a newly found photograph of Harriet Tubman as the inspiration for the looks in the new Kasi Lemmons movie.
At the entrance, there’s an office encased in glass, a cluster of desks crowned by mountains of papers and computers, a few of his colleagues working the phones. But to the left is a studio — and that’s a whole other story.
He intended to go to the site of the Underground Railroad and drive through it, to get a sense of the environment that Tubman and the slaves she led to freedom traversed. Tazewell followed a map that marked where buildings stood in the 1840s, potential bridges Tubman might have crossed — it provided him key information about the terrain itself, which informed what materials he’d use to create the clothing.
“I made that be a kind of an iridescent green, because I wanted it to be reflective of the nature she was moving through,” Tazewell says. “It had a strength, like spring. There was a new life coming forward.”“We go from that green, and when her sister passes away, she goes into black, into mourning,” Tazewell explains. “Then she becomes an officer leading troops from the Union Army and slaves down the river because she knew the waterways in that area.
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