Adam Platt plattypants offers a defense of 'Wasp cooking,' which he writes 'would have caused discerning farm-to-table chefs of today to nod their heads in approval'
The Platt family on board the SS United States in the sixties. Photo: Courtesy of Adam Platt As a card-carrying member of that ancient, put-upon, now mostly vanished community of northeastern Puritans, Yankees, and assorted poseurs and cranks known as the White Anglo Saxon Protestant establishment, I’ve endured my share of grim family meals over the years.
Like lots of multigenerational immigrant American families, however, the old Wasps had mostly lost touch with their culinary roots by the time I came along, and in fairness, while they were passing off these horrors as “good old-fashioned home cooking,” lots of people around the country were doing the same thing.
Back in the day, however, Wasps feasted on a brand of sturdy, regional cooking which would have caused discerning farm-to-table chefs of today to nod their heads in approval. Julia Child was a Wasp, after all, and so was Fannie Merritt Farmer, whose groundbreaking recipe-based theories were famous in her home town of Boston long before her books became popular around the country.
Cousin Frank, the family gastronome, uncorks a giant bottle of wine during a family goat roast in Cornish, New Hampshire.
To the surprise of the dwindling number of Wasps who pay attention to this kind of thing , this ancient brand of cooking seems to be making a comeback in a few trendy big-city restaurants around town. At Thomas Keller’s ode to mid-century Country Club dining, the TAK Room, you can enjoy a decent facsimile of French onion dip with house-made potato chips, and a very presentable example of beef Wellington, provided you have a spare $138 in your pocket.
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