In Beaujolais, I discovered just how hard winemaking can be

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In Beaujolais, I discovered just how hard winemaking can be
France Dernières Nouvelles,France Actualités
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A great bottle of wine will tell you its history from the first sip to the last drop

It was a bottle of Domaine de la Grand Cour Fleurie 2016 that sent me down the rabbit hole. For the first time, I wondered about what I was drinking. Which grapes were used to make this wine? From where? By whom? Why was 2016 different from any other year?

Pop enough corks and the adage that “great winemaking is great farming” will soon trickle out of the bottle. I quickly concluded that I needed to find an opportunity to farm grapes if I were to begin to peer behind the curtain. So, in the Spring of 2022, I wrote to winemakers across France inquiring about opportunities to work alongside them. The responses soon came back, “.” In other words, “Thanks for your interest. But, no thanks.

At some point, the exhaustion prompted me to ask, “Why make wine at all?” Perhaps sensing my disillusionment, the vineyard offered a reply. After two months in Charbonnières, it whispered feedback and encouragement as a single ploughed and primed row became two, then three, then an entire plateau; as flowers transformed into swollen grapes, ripening amidst sheltering foliage. It also offered insight, namely that a vigneron sees wine as the means to a bigger end.

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France Dernières Nouvelles, France Actualités

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