The handheld pastry isn’t just a throwback dessert for Arkansans; it’s a cultural heirloom
, a small restaurant near the Buffalo National River in northern Arkansas specializing in smoked meats, she knew she wanted to serve fried pie for dessert. And not just any fried pie—her grandmother’s fried pie. Warm and flaky, filled with tender apples or juicy peaches, and crimped neatly at the edges with the tines of a fork, it was a dish she had grown up eating as a child, like her father before her.
That was 16 years ago, when Jones first opened Big Springs. Today she still follows Shirley’s recipe, and though Jones isn’t climbing on rooftops in her free time, she adheres to the same principles as her grandmother by using local fruits whenever she can. When I posed this question to everyone from pie makers to restaurant owners to historians, most couldn’t pinpoint a reason for fried pies’ importance in Arkansas beyond the fact that, well, they’re everywhere, and they always have been. In Arkansas, you can find fried pies in diners, meat-and-threes, white-tablecloth restaurants, roadside stands, interstate travel centers, and beyond.
Thanks to their sealed crust, fried pies lasted for a long time without refrigeration, and could be easily consumed without plates or cutlery. According to the, “Fried pies were developed into a staple because they were easier to make from reconstituted dried fruit, especially apples and peaches,” thus eliminating the need to purchase sugar. Flour was cheap, and pies could be fried in oil, lard, or butter, depending on what you had on hand.
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