I’ve Worked in NYC Restaurants for 25 Years — and I Have No Idea What’s Next

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I’ve Worked in NYC Restaurants for 25 Years — and I Have No Idea What’s Next
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This is what it feels like to fear for the very existence of the restaurant industry

Deven DeMarco, left, in happier times. Photo: Deven Demarco Over the last quarter century, Deven DeMarco has worked at spots including the East Village’s Frank, where he cooked in the ’90s; Big Gay Ice Cream, as an events manager and catering director; and at the original M. Wells as a manager. Most recently, he was a captain at Hutong, the midtown branch of the high-end Chinese chain, until the restaurant shutdown put him out of work.

A lot of the coverage early was Chinatown shutting down and the effects on Flushing and those are really the cultural touchstones for the city, and I feel a little funny saying, “Here we are, a shiny dim sum palace in Midtown.” But it’s still our livelihood. To watch everybody stay away from my boyfriend’s place, because it’s Thai, and my place, because it’s Chinese, is heartbreaking.

I have a friend in the hospital right now dying. They discovered, when he went in for COVID-19, that he has lung cancer. I don’t know if I’m going to be able to see him without an antibody test.

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