'I tried the Michelin-approved restaurant hidden in a Manchester railway arch'

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'I tried the Michelin-approved restaurant hidden in a Manchester railway arch'
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'I tried the Michelin-recommended restaurant hidden in a Manchester railway arch'

Let’s face it, the majority of Manchester’s railway arches leave a lot to be desired. More often than not they’re gloomy and grimy spaces, permanently damp, and should be hurried past without so much as a glimpse into the darkness.

Step through the door, however, and you enter a bright and airy space, painted in neutral colours with neat wooden tables. Despite a dizzyingly high ceiling, it was comfortably warm inside. You can mix and match either Spatzle or gnocchi, with a selection of sauces, the cheapest priced at £8. The rest of the menu features a range of meat and cheese-based dishes, along with Russian and Polish dumplings and sides. The most expensive item we ordered was the goulash, at £17.50.

After a comfortable break four more plates were presented to our table. There was a creamy knot of spatzle with guanciale on one, and compact pieces of gnocchi nestled in a chorizo and tomato sauce served on a second.

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