SFGATE columnist Drew Magary enjoyed being treated like a rich man at the iconic California restaurant Chez Panisse, even if the meal left him craving a massive burrito.
every night that costs $175 per person, booze not included. Nothing on the formal restaurant’s menu looks objectionable. How many Silicon Valley executives and Los Angeles film producers have eaten at the cafe but demanded to order s—t off the formal restaurant menu? All of them.
I failed. She’d already eaten at the mother restaurant decades ago, near the peak of its virality. What’s more, she didn’t think much of it. “It wasn’t that impressive,” she told me, before twisting a knife in Waters’ escarole. “It was nothing, really.” Maybe I should’ve turned down this assignment and grabbed a burrito instead.
I sat down and eagerly pored over Chez Panisse’s offerings. My ordering game was tight. Everything on this menu was predictably, but I kept my focus. I knew I wanted the smoked black cod as an app. I knew I wanted rhubarb galette for dessert. And while I was torn between the duck and the pappardelle with basil-walnut pesto for an entree, I knew, on instinct, that my server would tell me which item he actually preferred, and not merely which item was selling poorly that evening.
You can always judge a restaurant by its bread basket. Some restaurants give you day-old French bread they got at a local Safeway. Some have a bread boy walk over to your table, using a pair of shiny tongs to dole out a selection of fancy multigrain and white rolls, like he’s selling cigarettes at a speakeasy in 1923. Some give you pita bread tastefully cut into wedges, like a sad pizza. Some give you no bread at all. And some give you bread only if you pony up an extra $8.
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