'I didn't grow up eating chips—I ate crack stick crackers.'
You know, those finger-sized logs of crab meat with an artificially colored coat of lipstick-red on top, and a glistening underbelly of white.
Despite their name, there’s no real crab in crab sticks; they’re made from surimi—a fish paste pounded out of white fish, bycatch, and other forms of sea life. You’ll find these sticks at hotpot restaurants, in the fried rice at old-school dim sum parlors, tempura-style at Japanese restaurants, in salads that purportedly have"crab" in it, and of course, in the ubiquitous California roll.Usually, I avoid these overly processed crab sticks at all cost.
All my prejudice goes out the window, however, when you unroll them, pull their layers apart, dust them in a bit of cornstarch, and deep-fry them. The little threads crisp up like fritters and like, the imitation meat transforms into another thing entirely. In this form, the limp, watery pieces of faux crabmeat turn into
one of the crispiest, most addictive snacks out there. They become slivers of crunchy, umami-rich goodness, wicking the moisture out of your mouth and causing you to salivate so much that the only cure is to eat more.Photo by Rocky Luten. Food Stylist: Anna Billingskog. Prop Stylist: Amanda Widis.
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