Pad Thai, with as many interpretations as there are restaurants that serve it, is perhaps the most Thai dish there is. Portland Chef Andy Ricker of Pok Pok breaks down the proper tools, ingredients, and methods to make it.
Contemporary versions, particularly in the U.S., tend toward big flavor—more heat, more salt, more acidity, and, above all, more sweetness than Phibunsongkhram’s elegant diplomatic dish. Funky or fermented ingredients like dried shrimp and salted radish are often dialed back or replaced with soy sauce or table salt. But even in Thailand, regional and religious dietary preferences mean no single “authentic” pad thai recipe exists.
Ricker, who spent a decade traveling and eating in Thailand before opening his restaurants, is famously obsessed with honoring the culinary tradition, so he took a shot at writing down the platonic ideal of pad thai. It is close in style to the understated, early versions of the dish, which makes a perfect jumping-off point: You can customize your own using khruang phrung—a trio of traditional seasonings to adjust the heat, saltiness, and sweetness.
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