Whereas a traditional pizzeria kneads dough in the morning and lets it rise until dinnertime, a new procedure combines leavening and baking into a single step.
When he was 25, materials scientist Ernesto Di Maio developed a yeast allergy and broke out in hives whenever he ate pizza, which was somewhat embarrassing for a son of Naples, Italy. “My wife loves pizza, and this sometimes creates tension on the night menu,” he says. Now, Di Maio can look forward to carefree dinners, for he and his colleagues have invented a yeast-free method of leavening pizza dough.
Di Maio’s team at the University of Naples Federico II thought it might be able to produce the same effect in a different way: by infusing the dough with gas at high pressure and releasing the pressure during baking, adapting a method they’d developed to manufacture polyurethane. “The aim was to try to make the same texture that we love so much in pizza without a chemical agent,” says co-author and UNINA materials scientist Rossana Pasquino.
The hard part was fine-tuning the pressure and temperature to reach peak foaming just as the dough is setting. Put simply, the researchers wanted the dough to foam like beer, not fizz and fade like Coke. “You have to reduce the pressure while it’s becoming solid,” Di Maio says. “If you are too late—you reduce the pressure after the dough is solid—then it cracks. … If the pressure release is too early … it collapses.
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