An earthy, smoky classic pasta dish that has all the flavors of the forest and a campfire packed into it.
, for instance, which is named for a hunter, yet, in all its many forms, it almost never includes ingredients you'd expect someone to bring home from the hunt. The pasta sauce known as"Boscaiola" comes from the word for a woodsman. Taste the sauce and you immediately get the earthy flavor of mushrooms, which a woodsman would have collected in a small satchel while walking through the forest.
The bedrock of the sauce, though, is inarguably the mushrooms, so let's start there. This pasta is best with a variety of them. For most of us, that will mean a collection of cultivated mushrooms, like creminis, shiitakes, and oysters. If you can get some fresh wild ones in the mix, the sauce will be that much better. At the very least, we can all grab a tiny bag of dried wild porcini mushrooms, which deliver a much more intense mushroom flavor.
Next, I sauté some sliced bacon in a Dutch oven or large sauté pan until it's browned and slightly crisp, then remove it with a slotted spoon and add the mushrooms to the rendered bacon fat in the pan. The key to good flavor in the mushrooms is to cook them long enough to get some good color, which means being patient enough to let them dump their moisture, allow it to evaporate, then continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until they're well browned.
Some crushed canned tomatoes go in next. I prefer to start with peeled whole tomatoes instead of buying pre-crushed ones, as they tend to be better-quality and are less likely to contain firming agents that can prevent the tomatoes from breaking down properly into the sauce. Once you've simmered the sauce for a few minutes , it's time to hit it with a small amount of cream.
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