Like other tokens of Asian-American popular culture — rice, dumplings, pho, soy sauce, Korean barbecue — bubble tea is an identity. And that, of course, comes with its own complications, writes jennygzhang.
” by the Fung Brothers, the rhythms and motifs of the eponymous “boba life” are familiar to anyone who spent a good part of their high school and college years drinking bubble tea with other young Asian Americans: strolling down sun-soaked streets sipping through oversized straws, abandoning a study session to satisfy a craving for chewy tapioca pearls, eschewing booze-fueled wild parties for nights of Jenga and milk tea with friends at a favorite local boba shop.
Bubble tea has been around in the U.S. since the ’90s, but it wasn’t until millions of people watched that YouTube video by Chinese-American brothers Andrew and David Fung that the phenomenon of “boba life” or “boba culture” was given a name, according to Clarissa Wei, a Hong Kong-based journalist who grew up in California’s Asian-American enclave of the San Gabriel Valley. “It was as if, for the first time, people were able to define what the subculture was,” Wei tells me.
What was happening, says Wei, was that there was a generation of young Asian Americans — originally primarily Taiwanese Americans, but inclusive of Chinese, East Asian, and other members of the Asian diaspora in the Valley near Los Angeles — who grew up hanging out every day in boba shops, where they studied, gossiped with friends, and went on first dates, all over the cold, milky, tapioca ball-filled drink that is“As a Taiwanese-American kid growing up in the early 2000s in the San Gabriel...
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