“When Southern Women Cook” is an homage to the American South and Southern women — Black, white, Indigenous and immigrant — and the food that empowers them
, executive editor of content for Cook’s Country. Just in time for Thanksgiving, the two join host Robin Young to talk about the food, writers and recipes featured in their new cookbook.Throughout history, food and cooking have sustained women as they have carved out a place for themselves in society and their communities.
We studied the archives to pull out the recipes that were both distinctly Southern but also windows into women’s culinary experiences. And we brought on food historian KC Hysmith to help us put the recipes into context: The South is a place, as the U.S. Census Bureau defines it, but it’s also, as KC taught us, well, a feeling. And so, the South in this book is vast. It includes Florida and Texas .
Although I spent the majority of my life in the South, this book gave me a new view of what Southern food means. While it does have its fair share of recipes for fried chicken and biscuits , it has so much more than that. The stories in this book show that food can be a lens through which to learn about our shared history, to pay homage to those who came before us, and to help build a better, tastier future.
Egerton’s fiddling with the term ad hoc intrigued me. I looked up the definition: “A group organized for a specific purpose; a temporary opportunity to accomplish something great.” Egerton, the author of the acclaimed book Southern Food: At Home, On the Road, in History, knew that I also shared this belief in the power of food to unify people, because he helped cultivate it. Since our chance meeting in Atlanta five years earlier, he and I bonded over our desire to untangle the knotty history and mixed messages ingrained in American race, gender, class, and food conversations.
I reveled in the strength and power of the women I met each fall. While shopping in one of Oxford’s secondhand stores, author and anthropologist Vertamae Smart-Grosvenor taught me to trust my cultural impulses, while Marcie Cohen Ferris helped me value my journalistic instincts as we crunched on North Carolina peanuts. From novelist and cookbook author Dori Sanders I learned the important art of storytelling while pondering the sweet, nuanced flavor of freshly picked South Carolina peaches.
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