Historic NYC luncheonette's sweet recipe for success

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Historic NYC luncheonette's sweet recipe for success
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The Lexington Candy Shop opened in 1925 - that's almost 100 years in business here at Lex and 83rd - and last had a major overhaul in 1948.

When you visit the Lexington Candy Shop on Manhattan's Upper East Side, the past is present - and you can taste it, one delicious egg cream at a time.The corner luncheonette was everywhere in New York City - until it was nowhere.

Yes, change may be constant all around him, but owner John Philis knows well enough to leave a good thing alone. He knows this place better than anybody because he grew up at the candy shop, working here as soon as he was old enough to take the subway in from Queens."The luncheonette in New York City was all over the place, every two blocks, three blocks at least. It's a tough business. And the rents went up," Philis said of what had been a first-generation immigrant trade.

"He has the same work ethic, the same mindset. It works. We take a lot of pride in the food," Philis said. The other morning at the Lexington, customers kept pouring in, snagging a stool or ducking into a booth, and ordering the good stuff: the BLTs, the grilled-cheese sandwiches, the pancakes, the French toast, the coffee brewed in urns and shakes made in a mixer from around 1948, the magic year here, the year so much at the candy shop dates to, right down to the terrazzo floor.

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