‘Hibernation,’ Brutalism, Climate Key at New York Textile Trade Shows

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‘Hibernation,’ Brutalism, Climate Key at New York Textile Trade Shows
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Amid one of the hottest summers on record, July trade shows showed one common thread: sustainability is a sanctioned value.

Biomaterials were also on display on the Première Vision New York show floor with a cactus-derived leather alternative from Mexico-based Desserto, where the material’s range was shown in application across industries from auto, footwear, apparel to home. As for performance, chemical company Sambu Fine Chemical Co. Ltd. touted collaborations with players like Nike, with bio-based polymer innovations underway more broadly.

Skip Kann, executive vice president for sales and marketing at Canadian vertically integrated textile factory Fine Cotton Factory, told WWD that GOTs certification is a key signifier for its 500,000-square-foot facility. As with many others, the firm is looking to increase its U.S. apparel business. “This is what we need for the climate right now,” she said, before flipping the slide to a toned-down outerwear style heavy on buckles, drawstrings and pockets. “This is like our very own straight jacket,” she quipped in a nod to “holding ourselves together” At Lineapelle, which was held at Metropolitan Pavilion from July 19 to 20, trends spanned everything from ’90s brutalism, trompe l’oeil digital realistic printing to deadstock.

Stefano Giacomelli, chief executive officer of Tivoli Group, called Mipel Lab a “one-stop” shop for vendors, stressing the importance of maintaining strong connections. “The goal is to make it easy for a U.S. brand, and we are working with some of them already, [to source Italian] production and development.”

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