From the banks of Phú Quốc island in Vietnam to a production facility in Hayward, Cuong Pham’s chef-lauded fish sauce — and his family’s best recipes — are the subject of th…
As a young child growing up in Orange County, Vietnam-born Diep Tran shopped with her grandparents in the markets of Little Saigon. And every weekend, her elders would inevitably stand and stare, disappointedly, at the walls of condiments, shaking their heads and mumbling that nothing available here was even close to the dish-transforming fish sauces back home..
Tran, a Los Angeles chef, was among the earliest adopters. At the time, she was running Good Girl Dinette, her popular Vietnamese eatery in Highland Park. After one taste, she purchased multiple cases of the amber, intensely fragrant “first-press” sauce and recalibrated all of her recipes — pho, curry, porridge and more — to this one ingredient.
Pham himself drove those cases down to L.A. and quickly developed a friendship with Tran. Now, together with Tran’s girlfriend, the writer Tien Nguyen , they have released “The Red Boat Fish Sauce Cookbook: Beloved Recipes from the Family Behind the Purest Fish Sauce” . The cookbook includes 100-plus recipes from Pham’s childhood, his current weeknight family table, newly-developed Red Boat recipes and contributions from some of the many chefs who are obsessed with the sauce, like San Francisco’s Stuart Brioza and Santa Monica’s Bryant Ng .
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