Over the last nearly 10 years, Denver’s food hall boom seemed like it was never going to slow down. But much like the brewery boom across the Front Range, the industry is getting oversaturated, and…
Evening light illuminates the game room at the Grange Food Hall in Greenwood Village on Thursday, Sept. 28, 2023. For the past 10 years, since The Source introduced the concept of food halls to Denver, diners have filled them up, looking for the latest ideas from hot chefs or restaurants.
“Food halls, the ones that were popular before there were so many of them, had cool restaurants that otherwise wouldn’t build restaurants downtown because downtown was too expensive,” said Leonard, who owned The Budlong, and now runs A.J.’s Pit Barbecue, Au Feu Brasserie and Grabowski’s Pizza, which operated inside The Source until recently.
That included a pasta shop, a salumeria and restaurants specializing in Nashville hot chicken, poke and bao buns, as well as a couple of bars. Not only was Bonanno a proven name — his restaurants, including Mizuna, Luca, the Vesper Lounge and Osteria Marco, are some of the most well-known in Denver — but Milk Market was located in a hot area between Coors Field and Union Station.
“We weren’t interested in selling, honestly, but RCI came back to us three different times, and each time they did, the price was more and more and more,” Guard said. The dining area of Safta restaurant features garage doors in The Source Hotel in Denver on Aug. 28, 2018. “Inherently, the fundamentals of a food hall are sound and stable and should mitigate a lot of the typical pressures in the restaurant industry, like labor, food costs and rent,” Larkey said. “It’s almost like culinary co-working, where the cost burden is spread out.”
“You have these pretty big highs and lows, and it’s hard to control the costs on those days,” he said. “We kind of got the rug pulled out from us a little, but now we’re climbing back into it.” Further west, Arielle Israel, co-owner of Black Box Bakery, is thrilled by her spot inside Edgewater Public Market. It has constant foot traffic, she said, and a built-in community, which has been “a huge plus for a business like ours, just starting out in the retail side of things.”
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