The third weeklong series diving into the Fairchild Archives to highlight WWD focuses on a 1970 interview with Christian Dior designer Marc Bohan.
“I went to see some Klimt drawings and found this. It’s amusing, but at the same time It has a quality.”“I THINK THIS IS THE KEY TO NOW-FASHION – INDIVIDUALISM,” SAYS BOHAN.“Well, when you use that word, people think chi-chi flowers, frou-frou, big hats. And that isn’t romanticism at all. Romanticism is gentleness, if that is what you mean, it’s what I’m after.”
He talks about a wonderful silk velvet he’s found which doesn’t crease, and some printed velvets. “But they’re driving me crazy, because it’s taking so long to have them made. “For one thing, in a couture presentation, you see a whole fashion mood brought together. I really regret that many women are passing up the defiles now to go to their favorite vendeuse and have her pick 10 or 12 models for them to select from. The woman who does this is missing so much – the little jokes that make up the spirit of a collection.”
“Fashion chic isn’t a question of money. It’s more a question of flair. It’s knowing how to buy a marvelous sweater, a divine jersey. Maybe it is a bit expensive, but it is the right sweater. Good French rtw isn’t cheap. I think we’ve passed the mentality of ‘oh well, it doesn’t cost very much but I’ll only wear it two or three times.’
“Much taller girls than before. With a real shape. I never used to like hips. Now,” grins, “you can have some.” Of the projected 100 to 110 models in the collection, he now has 30 far enough advanced to call a general rehearsal for that night. “By this time tomorrow, maybe 30 will be out,” he laughs. “But I like to see everything together and the only way you can do that is through a rehearsal.”
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