On the heels of the agave spirits boom, Mexican rum is finding its footing in the mainstream (via punch_drink)
On the heels of the agave spirits boom, Mexican rum is finding its footing in the mainstream.
Mexico might not be top of mind when it comes to countries producing notable sugar cane distillates, but between the misty cloud forests of northern Oaxaca, the jungles of the Yucatn, the country has a compelling—though often overlooked—legacy of rum production. “People have been making [rum] since colonists introduced coffee and sugar cane to the region,” explains distiller Elisandro Gonzalez, who makes rum under the label Dakabend in the Sierra Norte region of Oaxaca with his cousin Edgar. The locals in this area adopted sugar “to make a brown sugar called—that was the primary use—[but] some also used it to make rum.
Eventually, post-Prohibition forces created conditions for mass-produced rums to resurge and proliferate, like in the 1930s when Bacardí chose Mexico for the site of its first distillery outside of Cuba, and in the 1990s when the NAFTA accord gave large transnational brands outsize competitive advantages in the marketplace. Today, industrially made molasses-based rums with a light-bodied flavor profile still dominate the landscape.
With sugar cane growing abundantly in states like Veracruz, Tabasco, Puebla and other coastal areas, it was only a matter of time until some of the countless small-scale producers dotted across the country began sending spirits north of the border. In the United States, we’re only just starting to see the tip of the ultra-artisanal iceberg hit the market, with two prominent, though loosely defined, styles leading the zeitgeist.
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