Eli Sussman wants Gertrude’s to rise above the jokes.
. They were something of a Brooklyn brand name who got a cookbook deal before they opened a restaurant. But after a decade of seeing, hearing, and experiencing all the horrifying parts of restaurant life, Eli needed an outlet. “There were so many problems that were occurring, and they weren’t being taken seriously.”
It took off among chefs, owners, line cooks, bussers, bartenders, and anybody else who’d ever worked a brunch shift. In September 2020,making fun of the paltry PPP loans versus the massive crush of greedy landlords and the oncoming second wave of COVID, and another of two people in hazmat suits with the caption “Me and my bro bout to crush some yums at our 8PM rez @ Carbone on Sep 30th.” Other posts take on the, while some simply poke at the trends of the day.
He says the jokes aren’t personal: “I would hope people understand that it’s done from a place of us being in the same industry, and I’m trying to make a point; you do that by utilizing tools that everyone will recognize.” All three partners want Gertrude’s to be good in the traditional ways — a neighborhood place that is nevertheless upscale enough to warrant the purple marble bar — but they understand there are now heightened expectations as well. “Hopefully the memes keep me honest,” Sussman says, acknowledging that he knows there’s added pressure to run a business that upholds the values his account champions.
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